![]() We have not used the fancoil for heat but we do run the fan constantly for air circulation and humidity in conjunction with an HRV. Now we went with a fancoil too as we thought on could days the the in floor hydronic wouldn't be able to keep up as the walkout basement and main floor have West walls with floor to ceiling glass as does half of the upper floor and huge windows on most of the rest of the house. The hardwood is engineered walnut and approved for radiant. Upper 3 bathrooms are on one zone including under 2 showers. We have been here 5 years with no problems. ![]() It is also pex under the floors followed by double bubble foil and 6" of fibreglass insulation. We zoned it with 11 separate thermostats. We loved the heat so much when we built our 4200 sqft house we went radiant. The basement is just baseboard heaters also radiant. I put double bubble foil about an inch down under the tube and 6" of fibreglass insulation under that. This house didn't need humidity and it's in Alberta Canada. No problem on the oak hardwood but it was already a 40 year old floor. It had hardwood ceramic and Carpet floors. I stapled up 1/2" pex up and down both sides of the joists about 3" down from the floor. I am a renovator so I did the radiant myself. We moved away 8 years ago and still own the house as a rental. We had radiant in out last house for 10 years. Here in Emilia-Romagna, Italy, for example, one-third of all heat production in a home must be through renewables, a requirement that is best met in underfloor heating by combining a hydronic system with one of these renewable energy systems. You can also reap extra savings by combining it with more efficient heat production systems, such as a heat pump or solar water heater. However, keep in mind that a hydronic system has an advantage over an electric system: It can be used for cooling as well as heating. The general contractor or an outside energy consultant needs to be experienced enough to understand the effect radiant heating and cooling will have on your energy consumption, based on your house’s thermal envelope.Ĭost range: This is a major upgrade and can cost $25 to $30 per square foot for the entire system design and installation. Make sure you select someone with experience in this particular kind of renovation. Who to hire: A general contractor and a plumber can install the system as part of an overall renovation. ![]()
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